1968 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 2 Door, Solid California Car

1968 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu Description

*This is a project car that has sat for a few years without being attended to and a lot of stuff not finished. Paint is bad (scratched up rattle can job), car is mostly rust free (drivers side kick panel has hole still but most of the back half sheet metal has been replaced by me), and front end is slightly tweaked but car starts up and drives, brakes work, and is easily capable of being an every day driver as it was for me for many years (California registration is current and title is clear). If car is purchased, it would be advisable to have it towed/delivered to where it will reside as I hold no guarantees of how far you can drive it without issue as all I have done since pulling it out of the garage is drive it around the block to make sure there is no major issues. I have many more pictures and a video of the car running available as I do not want there to be any confusion or uncertainty about what the condition is so please contact me for all additional info. Winning bidder must pay a non-refundable $500 down payment within 48 hours; transportation of vehicle away from where it currently is is entirely on winning to provide as I will have no involvement with the vehicle after title is transferred over*
You are bidding on a 1968 Chevelle Malibu built in Van Nuys and spent its entire life in California. Originally a 307/Powerglide combo in Grecian Green, now with a 355(350)/TH350 drivetrain in rattle can black. I had put about 12 years of work and a lot of money into the car, paint and interior were unfortunately the last things I was going to deal with. I will give you as much specific info as I can about the car but what I've done to the car has sat out of memory for about 5 years now as I have just completely got out of automotive stuff and am tired of seeing this thing sit and be treated as a table.
Engine:
-355 (350 bored .030 over)-Stock cast iron block and crank-TRW Hyper-eutectic flat-top piston, running at ~10:1 comp. ratio-Stock rods fitted with 3/8" ARP bolts-Clevite bushings all around-Pro-Topline Cast iron heads: 2.02/1.60 valves, 72cc(?) comb. chambers, unknown cc of Intake/Exhaust runners-Harland Sharp 1.6(?) Roller Rocker arms-Comp cams valvetrain springs/pushrods/hardware-Cam/lifters are a Summit Racing set-up; mild-ish profile, hydraulic flat-tappet lifters-Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum manifold-Fel-Pro gaskets throughout-Holley 750cfm 3310 four barrel carb, vacuum secondarys-Mallory HEI distributor, MSD plug wires-Blackjack headers-Cast iron water pump (performance pump of some sort?)-Carter mechanical fuel pump
https://youtu.be/soS2HR84EAU
Drivetrain:-TH350 rebuilt by me, Transgo stage 2 shift-kit-Hurst Quarter Stick Shifter w/ Hurst Shift Cable-Stock Driveshaft with replaced grease-able u-joints-Stock 10 bolt, 8.2 ring gear size with somewhere around a 3.10:1 gear ratio
Suspension & Steering:-Stock control arms all around, front bushings completely replaced with Moog rubber bushings, rear bushings untouched-New Moog springs all round-KYB shocks all around-Poly-urethane sway bar bushings and body mounts-New style GM jounce bumpers-Steering linkages and power steering system components all replaced (stock replacement style)
Brakes:-Originally four wheel drum, now has single piston caliper disk brakes up front, rebuilt rear drum brakes-All new brakes lines (steel braided flex lines, steel solid lines)-New emergency brake cables that are adjusted correctly
Electrical:-New alternator, new permanent magnet style starter-Battery/charging cables replaced with hefty gauge wiring-Basically a brand-new wiring harness; dash harness is mostly stock but all old/cracked wires replaced;everything else brand-new; wired up the MAD Electrical improved Headlight wiring system
Interior:-Not a great part of the car-Dash: Most gauges work, Autometer water temp gauge does not work(temp sender I believe is bad, has happened before);dash panel was in bad shape kinda so I cut up the radio/heater control section and added a gauge cluster (not the best move afterall); dash pad cracked; most other trim is there outside of one A/C vent ball (which I believe I have one or two in the parts pile that will come with the car).-Seats: Fronts are not stock but kinda comfy? Will provide a stock replacement bucket seat from another similar A-body (cant remember which side); rears are stock, bottom cushion has hole in vinyl-Door panels are bad, will supply all frames so all you would need to do is recover them.-Headliner has been replaced, probably the best part of the interior
Exterior:-Most, if not all weatherstripping has been replaced-Driver side fender and most rear sheet metal has been replaced by me; needs a coat of body filler to cover up weld lines on quarter panels as I only did partial quarter replacements-Passenger fender needs to be replaced-Front end tweaked slightly enough to cause pass. fender to have very little gap between it and door; door opens ok now but didn't in the past (door/fender gap shows issue of the rubbing)-Core support was cut to try and remove dent/damage, only has sheet metal screwed to it to close the gap, needs to be welded-Still a rust hole in the driver side kick panel area-Various dents and dings all over body panels and bumpers-Paint is crap, that is all-Worst part of the car but is solid, there is no rattles or strange sounds going over bumps
Again, this is very much a project car but one you wouldn't need to do much, if anything really, to get it driveable again. This car needs a good home desperately!!!!

On May-07-17 at 10:09:04 PDT, seller added the following information:

*I have a whole mess of parts that can come with the car if winning bidder wants them. I have a LQ4 6.0 short block (minus rods and pistons), BBC -049 cylinder heads, various SBC parts (generic smog era heads, valvetrain parts, etc.), BBC oil pan and pump, Holley 650cfm 4 barrel (kinda rough condition), bunch of other stuff that I can't think of at the moment.*
*Also, the entire choke mechanism was removed from the carb thats on the car, so it's sometimes temperamental when starting after sitting for a while, a blast of starting fluid gets it fired right up though*