1968 1970 1971 Cuda Charger Challenger Scat Pack Mopar 340 440 six pack hemi

1969 Dodge Dart Hard top Description

WATCH THE TWO YOUTUBE VIDEOS
https://youtu.be/EN4Tb-dzoE4
https://youtu.be/jvJEm0OOJmA
If you don't know how to copy and paste go to YouTube and type in the search box: 1969 Dodge Dart W/340 Walk Around or 1969 Dodge Dart W/340 Amazing Performance.
I purchased this car from a young guy who was having some financial difficulties whose wife 'discovered' that the solution to their economic woes was the sale of his garage "toy." The car was purchased for just under 29k in 2013 with 71,644 miles on the odometer (receipts) and after a professional appraisal it was insured for 30k. Since this purchase the car has been driven ONLY in dry weather and now has 74,522 miles on it. The previous owner had ZERO mechanical know how and so he had a classic motorsports shop in the Dallas metro area do all of the maintenance. In November of 2015 the owner decided to upgrade the performance by putting in a Competition Cams Xtreme Energy Roller Cam, a corresponding set ofhydraulic roller lifters, a high volume oil pump, a rod main kit, replace all of the gaskets while the motor was out including the head gaskets. The bill for this work was $2,058.00 and I have another thousand in receipts from additional work that this shop performed. Apparently when they bolted up the headers at the collector someone didn't get the three bolts sufficiently tightened down and afterthirty miles the car became very loud and he parked it in his garage believing that he had some engine trouble. With winter came lack of interest, for some reason the battery lost its charge and froze and in this condition he listed it for sale and I bought it purely to resell it. I installed a brand new AGM battery, replaced the paper collector gaskets with aluminum, titled it in my name to avoid problems with Uncle Sam and began cleaning it up. I have driven it about 70 miles and it runs and starts like it's a new car.
Being 58 I grew up in the era of the muscle car wars and for all of you younger guys, the Mopars ruled the streets. My first car was a 57 Chevy with a built engine and manual transmission and my two memorable losses were both to Mopars. The Dart Swinger was created by Dodge specifically to take on the mid-size cars of Chevy, Ford, Pontiac, etc., and it filled the gap quite efficiently. The 340 engine was rated by the factory at 275 hp. but the big auto makers played with those numbers to keep insurance rates down and I have read numerous articles where the author argues that actual "at the flywheel" hp. was closer to 340. With all of the performance upgrades on this Dart there is little doubt that it puts out 400 to 450. You put that many horses under the hood of a 3,300 lb. car and what you have is a bad street machine that speaks through its exhaust that it isn't easily intimidated. Be sure to watch the YouTube video where I display someof its bad manners.
Because this is so much a muscle car let me begin by setting forth what I know about the drivetrain. In the process of discussing the car with the previous owner prior to purchasing it he gave me the number for the shop where the engine work had been performed and I called him up (that number will be provided to the buyer). He was very enthusiastic about the car and told me that the engine had been freshly built when he first worked on it and that he had performed a leak down and compression test and the car passed with flying colors. While he had the heads off he saw that it had KB pistons with a .20 over stamp on the top. The heads are Edelbrock Performers, the intake is a Edelbrock Air Gap and the carburetor is a Edelbrock Performer 750cfm.The ignition is MSD 6Al (Part# 6420) with all compatible MSD components. The radiator is a 4 core Be Cool with dual electric fans set to turn on thermostatically at 180 degrees. The shop owner noted on hisreceipt that after test drives it ran between 180 and 190. That has been my experience as well. On the front of the engine is a Billet Specialties serpentine belt and dress up kit that cost around 3k. The beefed up engine exhales through ceramic coated headers mated to new exhaust tubes to the rear bumper and I believe Flowmaster mufflers. The car has power disc brakes up front, power steering, and the mileage is so minimal since restoration that there isn't even a ridge on the rotor.
The transmission is a 727 Torqueflite 3 speed that has been BUILT. I do not know the particulars but it seems to shift at a higher rpm and pulls hard into the next gear with authority and no strange noises or clunks coming from anywhere in the drivetrain. The shop owner stated that it was freshly rebuilt when he pulled it. The rear end is a highway gearedposi-traction and if anyone cares to have me pull the numbers I will look for any identifying numbers on the differential. I pulled the wheels off to clean them (no curb rash or rust), and not surprisingly saw that the axle caps were new and due to the quality of the build throughout the car and the way it performs I believe that the entire axle has been rebuilt. Everywhere you look on the car one sees newer mechanicals in near perfect shape. The axle housing was professionally painted gloss black and all of the suspension components, sway bars, shocks, u bolts, bushings all tell the same story that 2,900 miles back everything was new and the car was never driven in wet weather. I have never painted the underneath of a car that I intended to have as a driver but the bottom of this car has no bare metal and I believe that it is POR 15. The moral of the story is that if someone wanted to take this car back to trailer queen status the work would be minimal. In its present condition it would win awards at car shows with ease.
I have built a number of cars in my life and there is no doubt that the original builder of this car spent upwards of 50k. All of the work was done on a car with zero rust or rust repair. I believe that the odometer accurately reflects the total mileage on the body. The body work, paint and panel fit are on a show car level. If you look down into the front hood hinge access you can see shiny paint (this color is the correct paint code for the car), which demonstrates that the fenders were off the car when the car was painted. The body lines on this car are as perfect as they can get and the paint is flawless without a single scratch, rock chip or other blemishes. All of the glass has been buffed to a high gloss and there isn't a scratch or rock chip anywhere. The regulators were clearly restored as well because all windows roll up with ease. At the time of the paint work all of the weather stripping was replaced and that would include window felts and the rubber around the vent windows and door glass. The doors, trunk and hood all close with ease, no door sag, and each component fits perfectly. The battery has been moved to the trunk and placed in a steel box with a metal restraint to eliminate movement and rubber grommets around the slits in the side toaccommodate and protect the battery cables from chafing. The trunk is immaculate and the original jack is mounted on the side.
The interior of the car is a 9.5 out of 10. When was the last time you flipped open the ash tray in the back seat of a 47 year old car and found shiny and new? The headliner is taut and in like new condition. The seats are without any evidence of wear whatsoever. I replaced the carpet because of a stain (coffee?), and when I pulled out the old I found what I expected, painted perfect floors with shiny dynamat sound deadener. I take away a half point because the seat hinge covers are cracked, the dye on the top of the driver's door handle is worn and because there is a spot on the rear window tint where it has peeled off. All of this can be remedied for about $100.00. The dash still sports its original radio that is in excellent cosmetic shape but has been replaced by a digital unit in the glove compartment. The chrome in the interior bears testimony to this being a Texas car. When the engine and transmission were pulled the AC system was evacuated and refilled and after sitting in the previous owners garage for a year it blows very cold. The compressor is a modern unit compatible with R134a. The interior lights all work, the speedometer accurately reflects your speed, the gas gauge accurately reflects how muchfuel's in the tank, the blinkers return after you make your turn, the horn works, the windshield wipers work, the windshield washer pump pedal on the floor works, the blinker indicators on the hood work, the flashers work, and the emergency brake is correctly adjusted and works. In addition to the factory gauges there is a three gauge unit mounted to the bottom of the AC unit and they work. All of the fluid levels are correct and I even greased all of the zirks underneath. For the adventurous buyer this is a fly in and drive home classic but because there isn't so much as a bent fin on the condenser or radiator, nor any dead bugs, I would have it shipped in an enclosed trailer.
This is an investment grade automobile that will only increase in value. Unlike a piece of paper that tells you how much you're worth this is an impressive Mopar in your garage ready to write your ownership story and be the center of lots of attention. When you pull up to the stoplight next to the expensive exotics nobody will be looking at them and while their car is rapidly depreciating in value yours will be appreciating. You will be the next steward of this beautiful classic that is a rolling history lesson for all of those unfortunate enough to have been born in a time when automobile styling was done in a wind tunnel and constructed from soda can thin metal and plastic. Boring.
This car is for sale locally and the reserve is set far below its value. I have sold about ten cars on Ebay and I have always left plenty of meat on the bone. Do your research beginning right here on Ebay and then on the other classic car sites. You can buy this one for half the price tag of others because I didn't have to fork out the 50k plus to build it. If you would like any other information or photos or to make an offer to end the auction early call me at (817) 403-7723. I will do everything in my power to communicate what I know about the car and tell me where to point the camera for additional photos. There is zero ugly on this car. Full payment must be made before the car leaves my storage and all shipping is the responsibility of the buyer but I will jump through hoops to accommodate them. Payment must be made by cash in person or bank wire transfer. If you are local and want to see the car or at a distance and want it inspected the car will be made available. Thanks for reading and don't forget to see both thewalk around and performance videos. I take the camera all over the car with no editing.
As with all 50 year old classic cars there is no warranty either expressed or implied.