1975 FORD F250 4X4 HIGHBOY

1975 Ford F-250 Description

Truck is a '75 Highboy with a '64 390 FE motor, granny-low 4-speed, part-time NP205 T-case (gear driven), 12-bolt closed knuckle HD44 front axle with the huge external locking hubs and D60 rear axle (4.10's)
The truck has cosmetic issues i.e. rust in the typical Ford locations around the rear wheel arches, bottom of front fenders, cab mounts,bed corners, etc.The floor pans are completely toast, I have new floor pans ($120) in the truck but they're not welded in yet. The bed floor is very solid, no holes only light surface rust. All the glass is good, no cracks, the rear slider works. All the lights work, all the gauges work (temp and oil are disconnected for aftermarket gauges). Driver side door leans a bit when open from 40yrs of people leaning on it when entering the truck and E-brake is froze in the release position.
Four-wheel power drum brakes stop on a dime or pretty darn close, they're adjusted perfectly and do not pull left or right. All new brake shoes and spring kits were installed about 8yrs ago and drums were also turned. Power-assist steering works flawlessly, leaks a little bit but it works, like steering a Cadillac. There is some slop at the steering wheel like most older Fords, about 1/4 turn, but the truck tracks true and straight down the road. The in-cab fuel tank is solid with no leaks, there's also two 20gal saddle tanks that are controlled by a manual selector valve. All three tanks work but I stopped using the two saddle tanks when gas hit 5 bucks, I put Stabil in both empty tanks and haven't used them since but they should work just fine after a quick flushing.
The 390 runs strong and healthy, doesn't smoke but it does use a little oil, I haven't pulled the rocker covers but i'm guessing the valve stem seals could be replaced. The motor has some minor external oil leaks and could probably use a gasket overhaul in the future. Oil pressure is a good 60lbs @cold idle, 45lbs @cruise, 20lbs @hot idle, Those are pretty decent numbers for an older FE which were notorious for low oil pressure. This motor does not run hot, never has, it runs a constant 180 degrees regardless of outside temps. Engine pulls a healthy 19" of vacuum @idle (800rpms). The motor breathes through an older set of Hooker headers and 24" aluminized glass packs. The tranny shifts smooth and strong throughout all gears, clutch engagement is strong but can be a bit touchy if you don't work the throttle just right. The 4x4 works great, T-case shifts easily through all gears with no bind (unless you lock it up on dry pavement) then just go in reverse about ten feet and it usually frees itself up. The hubs engage/disengage very easily, no need to wrench on them with a pair of pliers. The hubs and wheel bearings were serviced about 2-3yrs ago. The u-joints on the front axle start to "rattle" a bit around 35-40mph when the hubs are engaged in 2wd but when they're under a load with 4x4 engaged they quiet up a bit, they'll probably need to be serviced in the next 2-3yrs depending on how hard you wheel the truck.
The tires ($960) are 35" BFG A/T's and don't have more than a few thousand miles on them, the treads still have "nipples" on them, they are mounted on some old school aluminum slots ($200). Schwab's did a front-end alignment 4-5yrs ago and the tires show zero wear. The truck is very dependable, starts every time you need it, just set the choke and give it 1/4 pedal and she fires right off every time, at least down until about 15 degrees then I would recommend a block heater. I have owned this truck for 11yrs. Don't expect any better than 8mpg from this beast but she is fun to drive, she has her little quirks but what rig doesn't. I have given you the good, the bad and the ugly about the truck in an effort to be completely upfront and honest. I hate to sell the old girl but the older I get the less I enjoy wrenching on her, so it's time to let someone else enjoy her.Truck is also for sell locally and subject to early sell. Buyer must arrange shipping.
Here are a few of the more recent repairs and/or parts that have been replaced...2yrs ago: new headlights and heavy-duty headlight harness ($45), rebuilt the Edelbrock carb ($65), installed new battery ($130), new alternator ($60), new voltage regulator ($35), new 8mm plug wires ($70), new cap, rotor and magnetic pick-up coil ($45), new ignition coil ($30), new Motorcraft ignition module ($80).
3yrs ago: replaced master cylinder ($30), new starter ($35), new fuel pump ($30), new radiator ($300).
4yrs ago: All new dash switches...headlight switch ($40), ignition switch ($20), wiper switch ($60), turn signal switch ($95).
5yrs ago: New tie-rod end installed, this is the long passenger side TRE (drag link) that connects to the power cylinder ($170).
6-7yrs ago: Installed new knuckle seals/wipers ($110), new front shocks ($90), U-joints on front drive shaft ($55).I'm sure i'm forgetting some things but you got the gist of it.

On Jun-10-17 at 08:37:46 PDT, seller added the following information:

I am getting quite a few questions asking "Does the truck run?" or "Is the truck roadworthy?" etc. Yes the truck runs, it runs like a scalded ape going down the highway. There are NO known mechanical issues at this time, but the truck IS 42yrs old so there are NO guarantees. This is an "AS IS" sale.

On Jun-10-17 at 22:04:40 PDT, seller added the following information:

To answer a few more questions I've received....The last "road trip" I took the truck on wasover Memorial Day weekend, nearly 200 miles round trip. The truck does NOT need to be trailered if bought,but how far you want to drive it home is totally up to you.
Mileage is only 8mpg, doesn't matter up hill down hill, hi-way or city, 8mpg is tops. It's an FE, they are notorious gas hogs.