2004 F150 5.4 Supercharged 114k Miles

2004 Ford F-150 Lariat Description

I purchased the truck in 2008 with 45956 miles. I installed a Whipple supercharger at around 46,500 miles and its been installed since. Mechanic owned and never in an accident. I don't know quarter mile time of the truck as I never wanted to purchase slicks and hope nothing breaks. On the street I've outran tuned Ecoboost F150s, Fully built 5.7 Hemi Trucks, Head/Cam Silverados, Corvettes, Mustangs GTs, BMW M Series, Camaros etc. Based on a friends truck who has about the same modifications (no cams but slightly different intake, built transmission and built drive shaft) has consistently ran 12.2-12.3 at the track and makes between 475-500RWHP or roughly 580-620HP. I strongly believe my truck would also do the same if I invested in a built driveshaft and bulletproof transmission for the hard launches. I'm more of a street vs strip guy so that never really interested me.

Video Of Exhausthttps://youtu.be/vm9-rTI4f_c

Modifications:

Whipple Supercharger @ 12 PSI

8 PSI upper (stock size for Whipple kit)

4 PSI crank

(Boost gauge reads about 10-11 since Cam / Header install)

90MM Whipple MAF housing (stock 80MM)

Thump RRR Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner

8 Rib Belt Conversion started but most pulleys yet to be converted

47lb GT500 flow matched injectors with length adapter hats

80MM BBK throttle body

Transmission stock other than Valve body shift pressure adjusted (will bark the tires on the 1-2 shift)

Krank Vents PCV system

Ford Racing (FRPP) Hot Rod Cams

OBX Long Tube Headers into

Magnaflow X Pipe into Magnaflow 24" Dual in Dual out Muffler (True Dual Setup)

Exhaust dumped before rear bumper

2014 F150 Electronic Fans

Dakota Digital PAC-2750 fan controller (installed under carpet inside cabin, on firewall near drivers left foot)

JDM Engineering Data Log Tune

SCT Handheld

Autolite HT0 Colder spark plugs

Ground Force lowering kit

2" Front, 4" Rear Drop

1 or 2" drop shackles currently set for 1" extra so 5" total rear drop.

Eibach Pro Dampers (Struts and Shocks)

(Lowering causes a driveshaft vibration at exactly and only at 55 mph. I never drive 55 mph enough to try to adjust drive shaft angle)

Slotted and Dimpled Front and Rear Rotors

Black "Ford" MGP Caliper covers (suppose to cut down on brake dust, they don't but look cool)

Front Rotors have been converted from wheel bearing as part of rotor to 4wd rotors with seperate bearing. 4WD (cheaper) rotors can be used in the future.

400LPH Fuel pump, will handle another 100-150HP.

Black Rhino Traverse 22x9.5 wheels

Black chrome lug nuts

General Grapper UHP 305/40/22 Tires rated at 32k tread life. Approx 12k miles on tires.

Rear brake lights including 3rd brake light glossy black.

Tail gate debadged other than center FORD logo painted black (normally blue)

All other "Ford" or "F150" badges removed.

Saleen S331 Hood with Vent (very rare and expensive be careful)

Billet grill (on when purchased truck)

Roush Chin spoiler

Black headlamp housings

Shortie Antenna

Pioneer AppRadio 4 head unit (Apple Car Play setup)

Pioneer 6x8 speakers in all doors

Saleen Rockford 10" sub-woofer under drivers rear seat (easily removable with quick connect connector.)

Triple gauge A pillar with

Autometer Wide Band

Autometer Boost Gauge

Aeroforce Scangauge (plugs into data link connector and reads info off PCM, I watch inlet air temps and transmission temps)

Everything Else:

Leather interior has 114k miles on it and the seats while in good condition are not perfect. Rear seats were never used and are in excellent condition.

Truck is loud and will wake the neighbors probably. Truck as never been smoked in.

I change the transmission fluid and filter once a year. I also change the fuel filter once a year. I change the oil every 3-4000 miles with synthetic oil only and synthetic oil filter (meant for synthetic oil only). I change the oil about twice a year as I drive only about 7-8000 miles a year. I change the oil that often due to time between changes and to keep the oil fresh as boosted vehicles tend to put more fuel into the oil.

Truck requires premium fuel. If you absolutely must fill with lesser gas stay out of boost until you can fill a full tank with 91 octane or higher.

Unfortunately I never had a garage (until now) that was large enough to park the truck in so its sat either on a drive way or under covered parking. As a result some plastic is faded and some paint. I've had the roof repainted due to fade but most of the truck has been repainted over the years as I put new body parts (hood, chin spoiler) on or had parts debadged and repainted. I tried to show in the pictures the fading on the A-Pillar, and the clear coming up on the grill surround. There is also some paint issues on the top of the front bumper below the grill

I've installed a new A/C compressor (leaked out front seal), Alternator (quit on IKEA trip) and window regulators (in both front windows). Window tint is all new.

Truck Tips:

If your going to race the truck on a rolling start be sure to turn off overdrive first. Once the truck kicks down into 3rd gear you can gas it. A 4th gear to 2nd gear downshift is a good way to grenade a transmission. Going 4-3-2 shift is much easier and will keep it going for a long time.

If you are starting from a stand still at a light you can put the shifter all the way in first. Once you are going, without pushing in the little button that allows you to shift out of park, you can shove the shifter into drive. There is a neutral lock out on the truck so if you do not push in the button it will only allow you to go from 1st to Drive. If you push in the button I imagine you can go all the way from 1st to park.

In the mornings on a cold start I wait until the count down timer on the wide band counts down from 20. The wide band does a warm up and counts down from 20 to functioning. Once it starts reading I then proceed to drive. I do this to allow time for all the extra fuel during start up to be burned and allow proper oil flow in the engine. Yes you can start it and pop it into gear if you want but I like to be easy on everything.

Known Issues:

Being straight forward and honest is best. The only thing that I know that is an issue is the driveshaft vibration at 55 mph. Being I normally drive 45-50mph or 65-75mph I never notice it unless I rarely am cruising at 55. Like I said, its so rare for me that I never tried to do anything to try to correct it if it can be. Driveshaft angle is probably the issue. I don't want someone to notice it and think I'm trying to hide anything by not mentioning it.

The front timing cover seeps, but doesn't leak. The truck has never dripped a drop of oil on the ground. Doesn't smell like oil or anything of the sort. It just collects a little dirt over time.

With the camshaft overlap you get some exhaust smell from the tail pipes. I never cared.

Engine gets dirty with vent in the hood. Zero issues driving in the rain because of it.

Reason For Selling:

Wife has a lease of a vehicle about to expire. She needs a bigger vehicle as our family grows and my 3 year old doesn't fit in the truck with the wife in it. Selling the truck to get a bigger family oriented vehicle. Very typical time to sell the toy kind of story

I easily have around $20,000 in modifications and aftermarket parts in this truck and if was a true 4 door I would NOT be selling it.

Vehicle sold AS IS. NO warranty or returns.