Built for street and trail comfort and capability. Several exterior options!

Transmission: GM NV4500 5 Speed (this is the best and strongest 5 speed available. It came factory in mid to late 90's GM and Dodge 1 ton pick ups). 5.61:1 first gear ratio, perfect for a wide variety of trail riding including Moab. 5th gear is overdrive to keep the RPM's down on the freeway. Centerforce clutch.

Transfer Case: 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 split transfer case with Advance Adapters bellhousing and transfer case adapter. Rebuilt and installed in 2013. This design is a stronger design than the FJ40 transfer case, but I swapped it in place because its also a much quieter transfer case at highway speed. The shifting of this transfer case has been converted to twin stick using an Advance Adapters kit.

Front Axle: 4.11:1, Longfield 30 spline superset axles, electric differential locker from FZJ80 (converted to cable operation), new Tom Woods Driveshaft.

Rear Axle: 4.11:1, ARB air locker actuated by CO2 tank, Ruff Stuff anti-wrap bar, new Tom Woods Driveshaft

Brakes: 4 wheel disc brakes with new booster and master cylinder. Braided stainless steel brake lines.

Suspension: low height spring over conversion using Profits low height shackle reversal. All new Bilstein 5100 series shocks.

Steering: All Pro Offroad Hy-Steer setup, All new Saginaw power steering (new steering box, pump and hoses in 2013).

Fuel System: braided stainless fuel lines with AN fittings, new rear mounted fuel tank.

Body: new wheel wells, new rear sill, Bud Built 3/16" thick rear quarter panels, Metal Tech tube fenders, Metal Tech tube doors. All new urethane body mounts. Stainless steel bolts (installed with antiseize compound to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion). Powdercoated headlight bezel and interior pieces. New hood latches and rubber. New taillights and orange marker lights.

Interior: Mastercraft suspension seats with seat heaters, fold and tumble rear seat, marine GPS speedometer, marine Tachometer, digital gauges, wideband air/fuel gauge. Tuffy console box and 2 Tuffy security wheel well boxes. Durabak bed liner in floor.

Electrical/Wiring: Painless Performance fuel injection engine harness, EZ Wiring harness for the body, Painless Performance gauge cluster harness, some GM weatherpack connections. Most terminals are heat shrinked. Most wires are loomed. Almost all wires are labeled. Not a single old wire left in this vehicle. Optima red battery. New brake switch, new turn signal switch, new headlight switch, new turn signals.

Paint: TSC TS-66 Supreme Urethane Gulf #427 (Marine Military Spec) with a Satin finish over epoxy primer. This is military type paint to go for that utilitarian look I was going for. The color is kind of a desert tan. Its not white at all (in case your computer is making it look white). Body parts that can be taken off were taken to be media blasted before the epoxy primer.

Wheels/Tires: Eagle Alloys Series 102 Polished Wheels, brand new Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar tires 35x12.50R15, 5th wheel/spare tire included.

Armor/Bumpers: Redline family roll cage (welded by a professional shop, then powder coated), Iron Pig Off Road skid plate, homemade rear bumper/tire carrier, AtoZ Fabrication front bumper, homemade rock sliders, Ruff Stuff rear diff cover, Warn XD9000 Winch, Hi-Lift Jack.

This Land Cruiser was built as a nice looking, capable street/trail type vehicle that you can drive a few hours to the trail and not worry about not getting back. As far as design and styling of the vehicle, I took a lot of inspiration from the $100k+ TLC ICON (google it). I wanted a utilitarian look, not a trailer queen, afraid to see the woods look. I've only taken it trail riding 4 times since the rebuild. Last Fall, my dad, son and I trailered it to Moab Utah for a week, and it did great.

This FJ40 was built to keep, not to sell. Here's what I mean by that: I spent money on things that do not help a vehicle sell (to most buyers). Like new wiring harnesses, new body mounts, stainless steel bolts, powder coating everything that I could, epoxy primer, diff lockers, etc. That also means that I didn't do everything with selling it in mind--it may not be as detailed and nice as a trailer queen, show vehicle. I'm an automotive engineer, not a car salesman or car show guy.

I did most of the labor, so this money is almost all in parts. I did get help from an auto body professional for the rust replacement, and a mechanic for the transmission conversion and transfer case rebuild.

There is no rust. There was some rust when I purchased the vehicle and I replaced the rust with new metal from Cool Cruisers of Texas and Bud Built. The rust on the vehicle was in the rear quarters, the front of the rear wheel wells and the rear sill. All 3 of these were replaced completely (no patching into old metal). I have teardown and rebuild pictures of this rust replacement process that I can provide.

On the highway, it runs and drives good and better than you should expect for a 50 year old, short wheelbase, lifted vehicle.

Imperfections:

Paint isn't show quality. It's good, but not perfect (some texture in a few places). You have to get close, to notice.

The emergency break is not hooked up. Needs a cable and installation to hook up the pull handle to the assembly on rear disks.

It wasn't a frame off restoration, so the under body isn't show quality clean. There's no rust, but it wasn't painted/detailed like the top half.

The seats have heaters built in, but I never wired them up. The wiring harness is included--just plug it in and route the wires to a powered switch.

The GPS Speedometer occasionally cuts out due to where I mounted the GPS receiver (under the passenger seat). It only happens occasionally and only when I have a full sized passenger.

This vehicle is being sold "as is" with no warranty.

On Apr-12-16 at 06:37:20 PDT, seller added the following information:

A few people have asked. Glass in the original doors and in the hardtop is all good. Paint on original doors and top does not match current paint. They are close but would be a very obvious mismatch if installed as is. I have the paint code for the current paint in the documentation kept with the FJ. Doors and top are both fairly straight and shouldn't need much more than a paint job to restore. The rubber is even in pretty good shape though some might want to replace when painted. Top would need headliner or paint on the inside.