1984 Robin Hood 7 Locost 7 Lotus 7 Type PROJECT

1984 Replica/Kit Makes 7 Description

NOTE: I had to fudge on the VIN as eBay requires a 17 character VIN for cars 1980 and newer. VIN isSFAAXXBABAEL48446 (on UK title} which I keep entering and it keeps being rejected.

This is an unfinished project with lots of potential. It is a 1984 Robin Hood I imported from the UK in about 2010. Something of a disappointment when it arrived as it had an anemic little 1300 motor and a really clunky rear suspension setup from a Ford Sierra (Yeah, Sierras are Fords in the UK). So, I remedied that with a seriously pumped up Ford 2.3, T5 5 speed transmission, and Miata rear axle/suspension (looks like mini Jaguar) with some slick aftermarket coilovers.

The motor is probably the best part. Completely and professionally rebuilt (see receipts). Stroker crank, Chevy Rods (full float w/ ARP bolts), Keith Black Pistons (.030 over), Comp Cam, Comp Cam Rockers, balanced, lots of head work, 48 DCOE Webers, external oil cooler, header, Esslinger pulley, etc. Less than 10 miles on motor. Still has the break in oil. Runs very strong. Transmission is Ford T5 from a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. Hydraulic clutch release bearing, Miata rear axle with coil over rear shocks. Has aluminum radiator with electric fan, manually switched. Tires are Toyo Proxes R888 205/50 ZR 15’s with less than 10 miles. Pedal setup is Tilton with adjustment for bias toward front or rear brakes (all disc) Seats are Kirkey aluminum buckets with vinyl covers, Smiths gauges. Turn signals and lights are wired and work.

Still lots to be done here, and I’m burned out. Most of the difficult mechanical and fabrication stuff is done, although there could be some improvement made to the upper mounting of the rear coilovers to better isolate them from the chassis. I drove it today and there was some clunking and squeaking from there. Also, steering wheel is too close to the light switch lever, needs to be spaced back. I would suggest a thermostatic switch for the radiator fan. The fuse box needs to be mounted and the battery needs to be secured to the firewall. Fuel and volt gauges need to be hooked up, also cable/knob to adjust front/rear brake bias from cockpit. Some kind of cover should probably be made for the pedal apparatus. The seat belts need to be installed. Parking brake needs to be set up. Braces for front fenders could be improved. And then there is the cosmetic stuff. Paint is very rough. There are no carpets. No top. There is a tonneau, but it’s pretty beat up. This is definitely a project car, but you can jump in and start it, blast up and down the driveway or around the cul-de-sac if you dare. It’s stinky fast, even babying the motor as it’s just breaking in. Transmission shifts flawlessly, clutch works right, throttle cable allows full throttle and returns smoothly to idle.

Sold on a bill of sale. I will include the UK title and bill of sale to me, and a bill of sale from me to you. If you plan to use it on the street, it would be good to check your state’s requirements for registering special construction or replica vehicles. I’ve been through the process a couple of times in CA and it is bureaucratically tiresome and takes patience, but I got through it with a Caterham 7 and a Speedster replica.

There are boxes of extra parts included; some pretty nice stuff like four Tilton master cylinders in different sizes, and an extra leather steering wheel. Also, some junk I’m sure, but I’ve learned never to throw stuff out until a project is done.

$5K opening bid is less than I paid to import the car, and doesn’t consider the initial price of the car {GBP 3,000), or any of the parts; motor, transmission, rear end, pedals, seats, tires, and so on. I’ve moved on to other projects and need the space and hopefully a little bit of my money back.