No accident / damage reported to CARFAX |
CARFAX 1-Owner vehicle |
41Service history records |
Personal vehicle |
Last owned in Texas |
169,670Last reported odometer reading |
Year purchased | 2006 |
Type of owner | Personal |
Estimated length of ownership | 8 yrs. 3 mo. |
Owned in the following states/provinces | Texas |
Estimated miles driven per year | 20,323/yr |
Last reported odometer reading | 169,670 |
Salvage|Junk|Rebuilt|Fire|Flood|Hail|Lemon | Guaranteed No Problem |
Not Actual Mileage|Exceeds Mechanical Limits | Guaranteed No Problem |
|
Total LossNo total loss reported to CARFAX. | No Issues Reported |
Structural DamageNo structural damage reported to CARFAX. | No Issues Reported |
Airbag DeploymentNo airbag deployment reported to CARFAX. | No Issues Reported |
Odometer CheckNo indication of an odometer rollback. | No Issues Indicated |
Accident / DamageNo accidents or damage reported to CARFAX. | No Issues Reported |
Manufacturer RecallNo open recalls reported to CARFAX. | No Recalls Reported |
Basic WarrantyOriginal warrantyestimated to have expired. Interested in anextended warranty? | Warranty Expired |
View vehicles with free CARFAX Reports
MakeAcuraAlfa RomeoAM GeneralAston MartinAudiBentleyBMWBuickCadillacChevroletChryslerDaewooDatsunDodgeEagleFerrariFiatFiskerFordFreightlinerGeoGMCHondaHummerHyundaiInfinitiIsuzuJaguarJeepKiaLamborghiniLand RoverLexusLincolnLotusMaseratiMaybachMazdaMclarenMercedes-BenzMercuryMiniMitsubishiNissanOldsmobilePlymouthPontiacPorscheRamRolls-RoyceSaabSaturnScionSmartSubaruSuzukiTeslaToyotaVolkswagenVolvoModelwithin10255075100150200250500
|
Hi, this was the thread on Sprinter Forums that I found most helpful about fixing the Rear AC. Through my research I have learned that the Climate Control Unit acts as a micro processor which controls both the front and rear AC compressors. When the rear AC switch is turned on, the climate control unit is supposed to signal the rear AC compressor to turn on. The stock climate control units on these Dodge Sprinters are famous for breaking/ partially breaking in the 100-200K mile range. Here is the info from one of the repair service companies who fixes them for $99 shipped:////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// DoesYourAir Condition Heater Temp Control Not Work Properly Anymore? Known Problems: - Cannot control temperature - Fan does not work properly - AC Compressor does not engage - Mode Knob or Temp Knob stuck - No signal to Condenser fan Nowthere is finally a solution!REPAIR KITthat will eliminate all common problems in those Climate Controls .After years of research and several thousands of those controls repaired I created a REPAIR KIT that will eliminate all known problems in those controls. You will ship me your failed climate control. I will providefree installation. I will also replace burned illumination bulbs and do a final test on the control. Your Control will be shipped back to you within 2 days. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////First, I would highly recommend that you download a copy of the service manual. There is an excellent chapter (Ch 24) on the rear AC that includes a detailed description for the rear A/C controls and how to troubleshoot these components . Your problem could be a number of things - bad control module, a/c clutch relay, high pressure and low pressure switches. What happens when the switch for the rear system is turned on - do the circulation fans turn on? Check the easy and simple things first - fuses, terminals and connectors. I also agree with mendosy - time for a new mechanic. The rear compressor should have never been wired to the front compressor. The ATC (climate control) is a micro processor and expensive to replace ($400.00 new) just for somebody's careless mistake. Bruce P.S. The rear system holds 6.5 lbs of refrigerant. Was your system serviced by weight, or by a guestimate by the number of cans used? Unless the system was properly serviced, it may not operate because of the pressure being too high or too low.__________________ 2004 US T1N 158" 2500 Passenger, High roof, Rear Air, 2.7L, - the "Crew Bus"Last edited by bc339; 07-12-2014 at08:26 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to bc339 For This Useful Post: | lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-12-2014, 10:27 PM | #4 |
04$printerBus Join Date: Oct 2012Location: South-EastPosts: 36Thanks: 6Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesThanks. I have read chapter 24 previously, but I could not find a cause for the radiator fan issue. When the rear blower switch is turned on, the fan turns on and both speeds work. The compressor does not engage. The blue wire leading to the compressor has no power coming into it and I can't find a wiring diagram to tell me where it leads. I've checked all fuses, relays, connectors and switches, as well as replaced the transducer and front blower resistor. The rear needed 6.17lbs of r134a, which was 8 12oz cans. This was serviced by certified AC specialists. When I was talking about the 2 compressors being jumped, this is how it was connected: The blue wire for the rear was cut, and the blue power wire from the front compressor was powering both rear and front compressors. Symptoms of the 2 AC head units: old broken unit - radiator fan never turns on. May smoke after several hours of use. new unit - radiator kicks on after 30s, but only toggles between high and off. When the key is removed, the fan stays on high. You can even power the front blower until the wire harness is disconnected. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 04$printerBus For This Useful Post: | lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-13-2014, 02:45 AM | #5 |
bc339 Join Date: Oct 2007Location: Hawkinsville, GaPosts: 1,339Thanks: 1Thanked 743 Times in 483 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesThere is a wiring diagram for the rear a/c system. Page 8W-42-23 will cover the ac clutch and relay. Check for power at the rear ac fuse panel (you will need to remove the air filter for access) after the relay, gray wire from terminal 87. Bruce__________________ 2004 US T1N 158" 2500 Passenger, High roof, Rear Air, 2.7L, - the "Crew Bus" |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to bc339 For This Useful Post: | 04$printerBus(07-13-2014),lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-13-2014, 03:53 PM | #6 | |
lindenengineering Join Date: Dec 2009Location: Littleton ColoradoPosts: 5,599Thanks: 950Thanked 4,185 Times in 2,303 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesQuote:
There are a couple of derivations for your year most were made by Maxaire of Texas. To determine thisderivationslither under the van and look for a condenser/fan unit flat pancake mounted (horizontally ) against the under frame aft of the transmission. There will be a receiver dryer and pressure control switch usually mounted on the high side hoses attached to the body structure where the side sliding door sill/aperture is formed. Again (ref my other A/C posts) the wiring/operation is like a Freightliner big rig sleeper HVAC; in short a daisy chain from the under seat fuse area by using two add on relays AND a separate 30 Amp fuse. Basically when rear A/C is commanded the rocker switch (and not bridged or jumped from the front a/c compressor ---crazy) a signal is sent to the relays which is controlling the rear A/C compressor via the binary pressure switch attached to the receiver drier. Theother derivationis basically the same but is housed up in the roof pod again the wiring is set up as the under slung version. The principal issues on both of the units are condenser fans slowing due to partial seizure or are binding up. This overloads the fuse and relays, and eventual shut down of the rear air due to current load and fuse blowing. The other is wiring short downs controlling the system. Both a/c compressors pull less than 1.5 amps so cross connecting the systems might work as a jury rig set up but current load will fry any integrated circuits when current loads rise above the design point parameters . These fans are made by a Cleveland OH manufacturer for the the most part in 11 inch sizes, and direct replacements you can get from hot rod shops. So with out going into chapter and verse on the different systems that might be on your van, I think you need to investigate further on what type of system you have and use the basic tips I have given you to run down possible problem sources. Cheers Dennis | |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to lindenengineering For This Useful Post: | 04$printerBus(07-13-2014),lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-13-2014, 11:17 PM | #7 |
04$printerBus Join Date: Oct 2012Location: South-EastPosts: 36Thanks: 6Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor Issueslindenengineering: The rear AC has all the fuses/relays in the bottom side of the roof pod where the blowers are. I didn't realize there were fuses under there. I've been up there several times, but never saw them. The 7.5a fuse was blown! Not sure why the AC guys never found this. I disconnected the jumper and connected everything back to original specs and now the rear AC works independently. When the switch is set to 1 or 2, the compressor engages and all works well. This is all working without the front AC control module connected. Do you think getting a replacement AC control module will fix the radiator fan issue? I'm pretty sure the circuit board fried due to the compressor jumps according to what I have read here. The transducer has been replaced and all of the fuses and relays have been checked. Thanks for your time and info! |
The Following User Says Thank You to 04$printerBus For This Useful Post: | lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-14-2014, 12:43 PM | #8 | |
lindenengineering Join Date: Dec 2009Location: Littleton ColoradoPosts: 5,599Thanks: 950Thanked 4,185 Times in 2,303 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesQuote:
I know the system you have by the description. That 7.5 amp fuse is for the compressor clutch activation circuit and is linked to the pressure control switch on the receiver dryer. 7.5 amps is a common fuse selection for this style of A/C compressor drive design. The guys missed it because they are unfamiliar with truck A/C systems. Taking a tap off the front A/C system was asking for trouble quite frankly. The MB spec A/C clutch control activation for the front system gives a direct signal command from the internal control electronic board; designed for a singular unit, any peak overload (like jumping it to a an extra compressor) would take out the internal driver unit once peak load surge was reached. Installing a re-man /new controller should remedy the front A/C system issue you now have. As a suggestion I would recommend doing an amp draw on both A/C systems A/C clutches and all fans once it has been operating for about 30 minutes especially if it blows that 7.5 map fuse again. Use an Amp clamp on the front and a plug in unit for the rear system at the fuse holder. The essential part of any repair is to go back and make sure you haven't overlooked something either by oversight or something in the making. Seems like you have nailed it down though. Glad to be of help Dennis | |
The Following User Says Thank You to lindenengineering For This Useful Post: | lowprofile(07-15-2014) |
07-17-2014, 01:53 AM | #9 |
04$printerBus Join Date: Oct 2012Location: South-EastPosts: 36Thanks: 6Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesThe AC module repair shop received both my original damaged unit along with the new one that got damaged. He said they were both burned in the same place, where it controls the condenser fan. I have the new AC head unit, but I'm hesitant to plug it in. I was looking over all of the wiring one more time and the ground for the front compressor looks suspect. Here is the pic: Looks like an inline resistor that is broken? For reference, here is a pic of the rear fuses: Dennis: For the amp tester, is this what you are talking about?http://www.ebay.com/itm/231282259992...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT So I run the AC unit for 30m, turn the car off, plug this in, turn the car back on and read the amps/volts? Can I use a regular digital multimeter instead of an amp clamp? Not sure I found the right tester. After talking to the mechanic, he said he jumped the compressors as a last ditch effort to get the rear compressor engaging. Really not sure if the condenser fan was working correctly before the jump, which is why I'm hesitant to hook up the new AC head unit. If the condenser fan did not work before the jump, then this points to another issue that could possibly damage the 3rd unit. |
07-28-2014, 11:43 PM | #10 |
04$printerBus Join Date: Oct 2012Location: South-EastPosts: 36Thanks: 6Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts | Re: Rear AC Compressor IssuesI hooked up the new Front AC Climate Control unit and everything is working flawlessly. Thanks for all of your help! Now onto other issues... |
The van is for sale in Des Moines, IA. I made a mistake by listing it in San Francisco and ebay's horrible customer service will not allow me to fix the mistake easily. Please know if you bid on it that it is located in Des Moines, IA.
On Dec-30-16 at 06:35:05 PST, seller added the following information:The van is located in Des Moines, IA. In the auction description it says California and that is a mistake.
On Jan-07-17 at 11:03:37 PST, seller added the following information:Hi, I have had a couple people ask me about why the odometer shows 231,299 and not the advertised 172,381 miles. The 172,381 is the correct mileage. A couple months ago I had the Instrument Cluster go bad on me and had to buy a used instrument cluster to replace it with. Mercedes designed their clusters to use whichever is higher the old vehicles mileage or the new vehicles mileage that you swapped the cluster into. The 60K mile difference was not enough to bother me. If you can find a used instrument cluster on here ($100) with equal or less then 172k miles then it should display the correct mileage.
Thank You